Didn't do much today but packed my bag in the morning and then headed out for some lunch (a slice) and then to Castel St Angelo. It's the attraction I'd been dreading, and truly putting off because the queue usually stretches for a good hour in shade-less courtyards. I guess I'd timed it right as the queue was only 20 minutes. I joined and made my way in.
Castel St Angelo was made (relatively newly) famous by the film The Da Vinci Code. The scene were Tom Hanks walks down 'past the homeless' is actually part of the original structure, Hadrian's tomb (the Roman Emporer). It has changed little since then and still has the mosaics on the floor.
The outer building was added later, the year escapes me, but eventually the Popes began using Castel St Angelo as a fortress and hiding place. A wall running 800 metres straight to the Vatican was constructed so that the Pontif didn't have to walk in the streets with the masses and instead could escape the Vatican undetected.
As is with so many 'attractions' in Rome, tourist spoil them, myself included. Signs telling people not to take photos are ignored and the sanctity of some rooms, Pope Clementine V's bedroom for example, are ruined.
I class myself in that 'tourist' group simply because of the never ending need to take photos of everything, not because of the rude pushing, shoving and constant need to get to the front of the queue. I tell you, the world could learn a lot from the British; queuing being the principle skill.
Day 11 - Rome to Naples: Ciao Rome
Got up relatively early and finished packing. Had a quick bite of toast and once again put my rucksack on. I think it's heavier than before, despite my not buying anything particularly heavy. It was a long walk back to the station in the morning sunshine. At around 9am all the fountains get emptied and filled with fresh chlorinated water. Needless to say, this is the first time I had witnessed this.
Got to the train station and sat myself down and waited for my platform to be announced. As my arse cheeks hit the floor, the platform was given. 12. I dragged myself up and questioned my perfect timing. I headed to platform 12 and got on my train, carriage 1, seat 62.
The carriage is set out in groups of six seats, three on each side facing each other with racks above, a corridor to the left and a table to the right. Very Harry Potter-esque.
I was promptly joined in the compartment by a Chinese couple, an Italian man, mid 50's (his waist size and his age) and an Italian woman who insisted in chewing her sweets, which smelt like tar, so loudly that I think the driver could hear.
No matter. I put my ear phones in and settled down to listen to the Isles of Wonder opening ceremony soundtrack and stare innately out of the window.
Arrived in Naples and I knew straight away I was somewhere entirely different to Rome. No signs were in English, only Italian, and for the life of me I couldn't find another backpacker to follow.
It's got a bit of a bad reputation, Naples, due to it's scruffy nature. And didn't I know it. There was graffiti everywhere. And I mean everywhere. Even on the police cars.
The trip to the hostel was somewhat alarming. The metro is split into 5 lines, none of which have interconnecting stations, they instead have under street level walkways, sometimes half a mile long which connect the stations. The longest of these has 19, yes 19, travelators. And long ones too.
I should have known now that their infrastructure isn't thought through or planned.
Got the Salvator Rosa station which is my stop for the next week and I was the only person who got off. Not alarmed, I followed the signs for 'uscita' (exit) and headed up. Once off of the platform I instantly was shocked. Dead in the middle of this station was a piece of art work. Yes. On the metro. Seriously. What I was more shocked to find was the sheer size of the station. Probably as big, if not bigger than the underground station at Victoria. Vast and clean. It was huge. No less than 8 escalators to the surface (long long escalators too)
As predicted. Got lost from the station. A 100m walk from the station turned into a 25 minute hike up the steepest hill in the world.
Eventually found the hostel and the woman on the desk was of course wonderful. I had booked a 6 bed dorm, but they had over booked and offered me a €50 discount to go into the 10 bed dorm, which was fine. Rocked in to find only three beds occupied. Result I think.
Unpacked and headed out towards the sea.
It looked like a fair walk, but an hour later I had just got to the harbour. Bloody hell. Sublime views though. The city, the harbour, Mount Viseuvius in the background. It was nearly perfect.
Except for the dog shit. Everywhere. Seriously everywhere. There is a poster that says (in Italian) 'Don't be a bastard, pick it up'. It's brilliant.
Eventually found somewhere to eat, a proper restaurant in the back street and the first thing I notice was the price. In Rome, a pizza is maybe €12 plus tip and water. Here, I could have three courses and a beer for that. No joke.... The price difference is fantastic.
Also the beer is colder.
As is the air, there's a breeze.
The waiters are also cold, towards tourists that is.
The food however was, average, but the tomato sauce on the pizza was outstanding. Had a pizza Napoli with olives and anchovies. I regretted this almost as soon as I'd ordered it, but, when in Naples.
Walked back to the hostel and thought I'd call it an early night because of the travelling. How wrong I was. This hostel is all about nightlife. There is a roof bar where you get a bowl of pasta for free with your first drink. The laundrette has music playing and MTV on a screen above. The kitchen is open plan with sofas and been bags and rugs. Complete opposite to Rome in every sense.
Anyway, until tomorrow Bon Amis!
Oh, picture is of dinner (starter) nommy no?
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